20 March, 2011

MtM 09 - From bunkers to hope

My first Palestinian client really experienced the biblical 40 years of living in the Wilderness. He was born in a refugee camp in Lebanon 28 years ago and struggled his entire life against discrimination – first in the Middle East, then in Thailand, Taiwan and finally in Kowloon. For two years, he was my only connection with the Middle Eastern Crisis, which waxes and wanes in degrees of despair, but never eases its deadly grip on the Promised Land. I stopped believing in coincidences a long time ago, so it was no surprise when last Sunday I watched the Lonely Planet’s Guide to Israel, which abruptly opened my eyes to what this militarized country looks like today. Everywhere there are: checkpoints, barbed-wire, bullet-proof turrets, machine-guns and tense young soldiers adrift in an ominous sea of distrust. However you envisage the Promised Land, if you aren’t thinking “bunker” … you are wrong.

Imagine my surprise receiving a phone call the next day, a friend telling me a Palestinian family had just arrived. They were camping on the rooftop of the United Nations Refugee Agency, in the heart of Yaumatei. I thought I heard wrong. Camping? Are you sure?  Desperate Mister Amir arrived from transiting in Beijing with 200 RMB in his wallet and the best he could do for the night, was pitch a tent in a safe place, to shelter his tired and jet-lagged family. You have to wonder what forced this hardened father to uproot his children and travel East for two years, humbly accepting hand-outs from anyone kind enough to notice his plight. With their youngest daughter only three years old, they fled the war-torn West Bank, because there wasn’t enough food, no chance of education and most importantly – no safety. Amir lamented: “Every day I prayed my children wouldn’t get killed amid all that violence.”

Their wilderness journey literally took them into the desert: from Jordan, to Doha, to Baghdad and finally into peaceful Thailand. There they hoped to receive international relief, but instead were detained for months before being released without assistance, to survive on the generosity of strangers. Incredibly, a travel expert came to their rescue, offering discounted tickets on a tourist trip to Beijing for the entire family. Ideally they should have flown to Helsinki or Frankfurt to start a new life, but they landed in Shanghai, to discover the hard way how inhospitable and indifferent that metropolis is to the poor. Amir explained: “We are kicked around like footballs, because no government is interested to offer protection to Palestinians – who have become a shameful international inconvenience.” Maybe in a couple of years I will tell you they happily resettled in Canada, but what are the odds? I had a sinking feeling reading their ID cards stating “Residential Area: Jerusalem” – a poignant reminder that for peace to be established, injustice must first be eradicated.